Time on my side

This week we have spent the longest time in one place since we were in Bordeaux, France, for the grape picking, and I can think of fewer places better than Alcoutim to spend it, our current location, in southern Portugal, 35 kilometres from the Algarve coast.

Spain, across the river

We've had a very enjoyable and sociable time since arriving and I can totally vouch for this funny, quirky town as a good holiday destination. What brought us here was Suzie, an old friend of my mums, from Greece, who I had not met until now but heard lots about over the years. Suzie is a bit a bit of a Penelope Pitstop - eccentric, adventurous and independent. She spent a large part of her life exploring the world as a sailor and laterally travelling across Europe in a van and eventually settling in Alcoutim, where we caught up with her this week.

Alcoutim is a small village on the banks of the Guardiana River. Opposite it is the village of Sanlucar  de Guardiana on the Spanish side which, were you to drive to, would be a 90 kilometre round trip, but you can hop in a water taxi for 2 euros 50 and be there in less than a minute over the 80 metre stretch of water between.  I've observed a friendly rivalry between the two villages, which work pretty much in harmony with one another. Amusingly, every hour, on the hour Spain's bells strike out the time, and when the last bell has resonated, on the Portuguese side, which keeps English time, the bells start, a lot louder and of course one less toll than on the Spanish side - it feels like a real case of my bell's louder than your bell! Although on both sides everyone is lovely and friendly. The architecture and landscape is notably different either side, even though so close in distance; and annoyingly, my phone keeps switching between Spanish and Portuguese time, which could be problematic if I had an appointment to keep, which, thankfully I don't.

Spain in the background

This week we had our first collision! We ventured into the nearest big town, Vila Real de Santa Antonio, since the local supermarket in Alcoutim and the one in Spain are woefully equipped.  We opted to drive the river route, as it's more scenic and there is very little traffic. Unluckily, we ran into a huge cement lorry on a narrow piece of road and we both lost our wing mirrors. As is the way with the Portuguese, he stopped, was unruffled, no road rage or arguing over who's fault it was, we exchanged details and at the end of the day, no one was hurt and that's what insurance is for; still, I hope it doesn't happen again!

This Saturday was Nick's birthday, and what better way to celebrate than at a boat jumble - an opportunity to sell our bronze portholes we've been carrying around since leaving the UK, plus our fridge which drains our solar power and we gave up using months ago, just using two cool boxes now instead. We didn't manage to sell our port holes or the fridge, but on the upside met many lovely people and had a fun time; after the boat jumble (organised by Ted a lovely 77 year old Yachtie)

Our crash buddy

we went to a wine festival in Sanlucar, where not only was the wine free but complimentary BBQ'd pork ribs on offer too.

Whilst there, we chatted with all sorts of  people, including those who had boats moored in the river, where you can drop anchor between Spain and Portugal and it costs nothing; and those living either side of the river on the fertile banks - lots of 'alternative' people, artists, musicians, craftsmen, who have bought up small plots of land some twenty years ago, and others more recently, living in vehicles, caravans, yurts and various 'moveable' structures (including a couple Nick knew from the UK!).

Nina, enjoying everything!

So far we've enjoyed our time Alcoutim, we intend to stay another week or so - as we are awaiting some post from England that is being sent to Suzie's. After that our plan is to head to Gibraltar for the Christmas period, where Nick has some contacts and we might find some work, then after that into Spain.

We'll keep you posted!